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Friday 28 March 2014

Geonbae! Cheers!

It’s drinking time!

All the imported booze is heavily taxed in Korea which makes drinking wine a luxury, especially in restaurants, where bottles can easily cost you 50 to 60 USD (50,000 to 60,000 Korean won). Spirits... don't even mention it! On Saturday we were in a Mexican restaurant where they charged almost 20 USD for a Margarita! Surprisingly the food was one of the best we have had in international restaurants.

The Korean products are on the other hand extremely cheap. One bottle of soju in the supermarket costs around 1USD. The bottle of makgeolli is a bit more, but less than 2USD. So getting drunk is not a difficult task, as long as you grow fond of the taste of Korean beverages, which believe me, is pretty far from what we are used to.

MakgeolliWikipedia: Soju

Soju has a very plain grainy taste and the high alcoholic content is all you feel burning your chest when you gulp it down. Makgeolli – made from a mixture of wheat and rice – has a milky appearance and can be more interesting when perfumed with spices (cinnamon, ginger) and fruits (apple, orange).

Getting drunk is something normal but only among men. They drink together, mostly in the evenings, after leaving the office, and drag themselves in the streets afterwards, sometimes singing while hugging each other.

One hardly sees a woman drunk, except in Itaewon, the international area, though rarely. But when I say drunk, I say dead-drunk, which is a state they easily attain after two beers. :) Lack of the necessary enzymes to break down the alcohol.

A useful service has been gaining ground in Korea – the designated driver service, which you can call in case you had a bit too much to drink and want to be driven home in your own car. An estimated 100,000 replacement drivers tend to 700,000 customers every day across the country. This number increases by 30 % on Fridays (source: Korea Service Driver Society). In a 50 million people country, this is a significant number.

Thing about drinking in Korea is this: even if they drink a huge amount of booze they still maintain themselves morally sound. The drunk foreigners are the ones doing mischief.

Next post will be about food – street food, yeah!

Tuesday 18 March 2014

Wiki Korea

It has been an interesting few weeks. I'm now feeling more hopeful regarding communication with Koreans, but probably I have taken my gesture skills to the next level in the meantime. And Google Translate has given me a hand.

I’m amazed with how much communication can take place with only a few gestures and words like:

  • “spicy” – that’s the warning I get whenever I buy kimchi here, and then I'm asked if I wanna take it in the airplane (is that even possible? not only the because of the smell, I mean, there's still a lot of liquid inside!),
  • “on / off” – very important when I have technicians coming to fix / handle appliances at home,
  • “ice / hot” – whenever I order a coffee, tea or latte in a coffee shop I’m always asked if I want it iced or hot, even if it’s -10 degrees outside,
  • “sign / no sign” – debit cards don’t require pin numbers in Korea. 3 out of 10 times I don’t even need to sign, which makes losing the card a big risk; on the other hand, it’s one of the safest places I've been…

Everything is high-tech and loud. There are tv screens everywhere and appliances produce annoying long-lasting sounds to indicate errors or that the programme has ended. Every time, the ATM and the metro card reload machine scream at me with instructions in English and I don’t know how to make them stop. And the voice in English sounds so much louder than the Korean. Almost as if foreigners needed extra encouragement.

Keys have no use in Korea. Everything works with codes, including our apartment door:


 Our living-room looks like a control room:


Everyone carries a Samsung Galaxy Note, though some lost souls try to stand out of the crowd with an iPhone. Since its launch, 10 million Notes have been sold in Korea alone. Most of the technology in public places is powered by Samsung. Our home is powered by LG (ok, except the microwave and the TV).

The banking system is pretty advanced in some things like paying bills by only scanning a QR code and so behind in others – I still had to go to the counter to change my card’s pin code (yes, the one I never use).

In the meantime we have found a little Portuguese oasis in Hongdae, the university area – the first and only Portuguese restaurant Taverna de Portugal with Super Bock beer and homemade “pastéis de nata”, yeah! It's run by a Portuguese-Korean couple and will be our safe haven whenever we feel homesick and need to speak Portuguese to someone other than ourselves. Difficult task, since there's just a few over 100 Portuguese in the whole country...



마포구 상수동 90-8

Another nice thing I've discovered this week: Spring is coming!

Hannam-dong, Seoul

Tuesday 4 March 2014

Goodbye Brussels… hello Seoul!

I should have written this post a long time ago but moving leaves little time to stretch the mind. I feel I should honour the city where I lived for almost 7 years with some words.

Even though at first glance Brussels can be disappointing it grows on you and once you discover its hidden secrets, it’s hard not to like it. The only thing I’m happy to leave behind is the bad customer service, with a few exceptions.

My last days in Brussels were kind of emotional. I’ve tried to go to the places I like the most. The only miss was this sneaky Japanese restaurant in St Catherine – there’s only one living person I know who has actually made it there. It’s always full and they make it clear by having a “complet” sign on the door… all the time!

Otherwise, I went:
  • one last time to the opera in La Monnaie and saw Jenufa with friends, after which we had a beer in the historic brasserie Le Cirio
  • one weekend to Porto to celebrate my parents’ birthdays. Thank you Ryanair for helping with last minute decisions!
  • to the El Dorado room in UGC De Brouckere to watch 12 Years a Slave and to Actor’s Studio to watch La Grande Belezza.
  • to eat “moules and frites” in Le Pré Salé in rue de Flandres. Best mussels in Brussels, by the way.
  • to Nespresso at least twice to bag as many capsules as possible to bring to Seoul – it’s a highend product here, not to talk about the Starbucks latte at 6,5USD.
  • to Inno department store to stock up with clothes – fashion in Seoul is peculiar to say the least, although I’m finally in the land of extra small sizes, oooray.

For my last lunch in Brussels we ordered Turkish pizza, delivered in the office. We accompanied it with French wine and a lively discussion about curling while listening to Gangnam style and Silvio Berlusconi, alternatively.
Cheese pide


The “apero” later that evening was in a brand new restaurant / bar called Beaucoup fish. It’s worth a try and the way they bring the bill is kind of funny, at least for a Portuguese.

Tuna can Bom Petisco (PT)

So hard to say goodbye to friends.

My last morning was a mix of different feelings but sadness was the strongest. I was taken to the airport by an extremely nice Rwandan taxi driver, but didn't leave the country without having an altercation, this time with the staff at the check-in counter. This is Belgium!